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Two days in Beijing: Historical texture, modern city
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Two days in Beijing: Historical texture, modern city

“Seek knowledge even if it is in China.”

Prophet Muhammad

The Prophet of Islam said this to emphasize that seeking knowledge is a duty for every Muslim. At that time, China was considered a distant land, and pursuing knowledge was challenging. The Prophet highlighted the necessity of enduring difficulties in the quest for knowledge.

Today, thanks to technology, China is no longer distant. This country, one of the world’s oldest civilizations, has become one of the largest economies under the leadership of the Communist Party of China. In this emerging Asian Century, China’s economic, technological, scientific, and cultural advancements can be observed even without visiting.

The Chinese Embassy in Ankara invited journalists from Aydınlık Newspaper and Ulusal Channell to a week-long program in China. We participated in this program to witness, learn, and experience China firsthand. We visited Beijing, Shanghai, and Shenzhen and are sharing our observations with our readers.

IN THE SHADOW OF A TURTLE, AMONG THE ROSES

From Istanbul at latitude 40.879326, a 10-hour journey takes us to Beijing at latitude 39.9035. The first light of morning greets us. Upon stepping out of the airport, we feel the cold, misty air filling our lungs. The Beijing airport is one of the world’s largest, and rail systems facilitate access to its exits. Outside, a structure resembling a giant turtle welcomes us.

For the Chinese, the turtle is a sacred animal, one of the four auspicious creatures. As one of the world’s oldest creatures, it symbolizes knowledge, perseverance, prosperity, longevity, and strength. We encounter similar turtle imagery on the second day of our visit, in the Forbidden City gardens.

It’s Monday, and while Beijing and other cities generally do not experience significant traffic issues, there is some congestion during rush hour. As our vehicle proceeds at a turtle’s pace at times, we enjoy observing the orderly arrangement of large, tree-lined avenues.

Approaching the city center, sunlight reflects on the windows of neatly aligned houses, with skyscraper silhouettes occasionally appearing in the background. Along the way, we notice a few people waiting for buses or taking morning walks. As we near the city center, government buildings and median strips adorned with roses catch our attention, accompanying us along the route.

PEDAL AWAY, EXERCISE, LIVE HEALTHY

We settle into our hotel, located in one of Beijing’s central areas. Our first program is scheduled for the afternoon, so we use the time efficiently and explore the surroundings on foot.

Beijing is a flat city, with wide roads and sidewalks extending as far as the eye can see. Although we didn’t have time to use it, the city’s underground rail network is highly developed, reaching nearly every corner.

Two things stand out:

  1. A sea of bicycles and electric bicycles.
  2. People exercising on every corner.

Aside from public transport, bicycles are the most popular mode of transportation. The fronts of workplaces, malls, and street corners are lined with rows of colorful bicycles—yellow, blue, green—the most affordable and healthiest mode of transport. Many people prefer bicycles to commute to work.

According to data released by the China Bicycle Association on World Car-Free Cities Day, September 17, 2023, the total number of bicycles in China exceeds 200 million. In Beijing, bicycles account for about 30% of transportation. Nationwide, the use of bicycles reduces daily carbon emissions by approximately 10,000 tons, equivalent to saving 6.6 million liters of gasoline.

Electric vehicles are also abundant. All taxis, buses, and public transport are electric. This is significant because Beijing once had severe air pollution. Relocating factories outside the city, reducing carbon emissions, and demolishing buildings that obstruct air circulation have transformed the city’s air quality. Masks, once ubiquitous, are now a rare sight.

Second, people exercising on street corners or in community building courtyards caught our attention. From the young to the elderly, Beijingers form circles and perform gymnastics to music, starting their day with energy.

HISTORIC STREETS ON ONE SIDE, GLITTERING AVENUES ON THE OTHER

Beijing is an ancient city with a current population nearing 25 million. The importance China places on its capital is evident in its orderliness, greenery, and clean, spacious streets. This meticulous landscaping is a hallmark of Chinese discipline and is noticeable wherever we go.

At the city’s center are the Hutongs, long narrow streets lined with traditional courtyard houses called Siheyuan, built in interconnected rows. Dating back to the 12th century, many of these neighborhoods, with their nearly thousand-year-old history, are still inhabited. These streets are safe and easy to explore.

At night, we visit Wangfujing Street, one of Beijing’s most famous shopping avenues. With its illuminated streets and a range of options from small shops to large malls, this area caters to all needs. Major Chinese tech companies showcase their products in large flagship stores here. Traditional Chinese arches and digital displays showcasing cultural advertisements are also prominent.

The morning exercisers are back in the evening, dancing and exercising along the sidewalks of Wangfujing to music, often wearing traditional attire. Anyone can join in.

One striking feature of Beijing is the absence of large advertisement-covered buildings or billboards that are common in other countries. This enhances visual aesthetics. Art and culture galleries are frequently found along the streets.

IN THE BLUE ROOM, RED-HOT AGENDAS

We spend our time between morning and evening in an official visit to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Information Department. This includes access to the Blue Room, a space usually reserved for accredited journalists. Managers from Aydınlık Newspaper and Ulusal Channel are granted a special privilege to enter.

Journalists from around the world who are stationed in China can ask the Ministry Spokesperson any question without time restrictions. The press conference continues until the last question is answered. This space represents a practical example of democratic culture and freedom of expression.

Western institutions posed a barrage of questions, some even asking twice. Spokesperson Lin Jian answered each one, ranging from Taiwan to the elections in Iraq’s Kurdish Autonomous Region, with brevity and precision. The daily question-and-answer session contrasts with the weekly format in our country.

After the spokesperson’s remarks, we were briefed on the Information Department’s operations and given access to its publications.

REMEMBERING JULY 15 AT CGTN HEADQUARTERS

Our second day in Beijing begins with another media visit. Our first stop is the Asia-Africa Center of China Central Radio and Television (CCTV). The Turkish service managers greet us. Whether entering the country, walking in the streets, staying at hotels, or visiting official offices, one thing is constant: security is always a priority. We hand over our passports, and our names are cross-checked against the visitor list. With a given document, we can pass through the gate. Security is present both at the main entrance and at the doors on every floor of the building. They take their duties seriously. Our delegation leader, Cem Dikmen, emphasizes the importance of security to Tang Jiankun, the Head of the Turkish Service, whom we call “Mr. Hakan,” and references the events of July 15. Indeed, we can’t help but think: if TRT had been as well-guarded, could the coup plotters have broadcast their statement so easily? New ideas about the security of public institutions begin to take shape in our minds.

We have a long conversation with Tang Jiankun and the department managers. The managers and staff speak Turkish fluently. We exchange experiences, discuss our countries’ shared priorities, and explore potential collaborations between the two nations and institutions. We spend considerable time brainstorming ideas about the current state of media and what new initiatives can be pursued.

AN INDUSTRIAL PARK WITHOUT THE NUMBER 4

Our second stop is a workplace: the headquarters of Jingdong Group and the Jingdong Beijing Smart Industrial Park. Jingdong is one of the largest e-commerce companies, employing 517,124 people under its umbrella. The building we visit alone accommodates 40,000 employees. The Jingdong Group headquarters is a massive campus with workspaces as well as accommodations for employees, shopping centers, daycare facilities for children, and leisure and recreational areas. Among the company’s goals is increasing the taxes it contributes to the state.

Next, we head to Jingdong Beijing Smart Industrial Park. Orders here are processed quickly using cutting-edge technology, a vast and wide conveyor system, and even drones in certain parts of the country. It feels like Fordism is alive here. Seeing the fast-moving machines, we ask about the error rate. The representative says, “We have a 99.9% success rate,” and adds, “In fact, we’ve never had any errors so far.”

The representative explains the building and how the system works. Something catches our attention in the model: every building has a number, but they go 1, 2, 3, 5. In China, numbers are considered very significant for luck. The luckiest number is 8. When we asked for Wi-Fi passwords at restaurants, the answer was often “eight 8s.” Along with 8, 2, 6, and 9 are also considered lucky. However, the number 4 is deemed unlucky, much like 13 in the West. Therefore, buildings are not labeled with the number 4, and there is no fourth floor in elevators. This belief is partly phonetic: the word for “eight” (八, Pinyin: bā) sounds similar to the word for “prosperity” or “wealth,” while “four” (四, Pinyin: sì) sounds like the word for “death” (死, Pinyin: sǐ). Besides the belief in the luck of numbers, fortune-telling also holds significance in some regions. We learned about this in Shenzhen, near the Hong Kong border. Businesspeople there reportedly often consult fortune-tellers about the upcoming year’s economic outlook. In a country advanced in technology and science, superstitions still have a place.

The Jingdong Group we visited symbolizes China’s production power and progress.

ONCE FORBIDDEN TO THE PUBLIC, NOW OPEN TO ALL: THE FORBIDDEN CITY

After our media and corporate visits, we stop for a cultural experience: the Forbidden City. It is the world’s largest palace, built during the Ming Dynasty. Construction began in 1406 and was completed in 14 years. The historical palace attracts as many visitors as an entire nation every year, hosting around 17 million people annually. Entry requires prior reservations. Foreign tourists can enter by presenting their passports. Not only foreign tourists but also local visitors show great interest, with schools organizing trips.

The Chinese are a nation that values their culture. We notice Chinese women seemingly stepping out of history, touring the palace in traditional attire and taking photographs. Watching this scene in the Chinese Palace brings to mind a verse from Hafez:

“The Chinese beauty is an enemy of my faith and heart;
O Lord, guard my faith and heart.”

On a lighter note, Chinese women, thanks to the revolution, have become the foundation of society today. They are at the forefront everywhere. We will touch on this topic later. Returning to the palace:

Dragon motifs are everywhere in the Forbidden City. In Chinese culture, the dragon symbolizes compassion, magnificence, power, and the success of a deserving individual. On Chinese New Year, the sun illuminates the nine dragons in the emperor’s chamber.

The emperor’s residence contains 126 rooms. To prevent assassination attempts, no one knows which room the emperor will sleep in. The emperor and empress had separate quarters, flanked by the harem on both sides. In one section, the emperor’s chosen successor was recorded in a decree, kept in the palace and also given to the prime minister of the time. After the emperor’s death, the names were compared, and the matching individual ascended the throne.

The courtyard contains many cauldrons as a precaution against fire. Large incense burners and brass tripods can also be found. The garden features sun dials, long-lived cranes, and turtles resembling those we saw earlier at the airport. Near the exit, a temple comes into view.

The palace houses 9,999.5 rooms. The number ten was reserved for the Celestial Emperor, so the Forbidden City had to have fewer than the 10,000 rooms believed to exist in the celestial palace. A temple to the right of the palace allowed only the emperor to worship, symbolically completing the 10,000 count and ascending to heaven. Serving Chinese emperors for 500 years, the palace was once forbidden to the public, hence the name “Forbidden City.” After the Chinese revolutions of 1911 and 1949 and the abolition of the empire, it was opened to humanity. We recommend everyone visiting Beijing make time for the Forbidden City. Let us end this section with these words: it is now a forbidden city, not for people, but for emperors.

*This article retrieved from aydinlik.com.tr
Sourse: https://www.aydinlik.com.tr/koseyazisi/pekinde-iki-gun-tarihsel-doku-cagcil-kent-496456

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